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Weave a Mini Modern Storage Basket

I really enjoyed teaching everyone to make a miniature gardening basket recently, and it got me thinking – are there other ways to make miniature baskets? Of course! Here is a beginner’s strategy that uses sewing pins and a simple weave for a modern take on a basket. The final result looks just like the ones at Target!


  • foamboard
    • You can get all kinds of sizes of foamboard. Smaller pieces work better, so if you can’t find a small piece, cut it yourself with a box cutter or hobby knife. You want a piece that you can rotate while you are working!
  • ruler
  • pins
  • hemp cord
    • Make sure the weight of cord that you choose is thin enough to weave easily through the pins. Anything bigger than 36 lb won’t work. Check out our variety pack!
    • We used 20 lb for a thicker basket. With anything smaller, you will need more layers but will get more definition!
  • glue
    • Pick a glue that dries clear!
  • brush
    • This is for gluing, so pick a cheap, small one. We sell a set of 12 for just $.75!
  • paper or cardstock
  • pen or marker
  • Optional hobby knife
  • Optional tweezers
  • Optional paint palette
    • Super handy for holding glue during this process. Grab one for $.79!

Step 1 – Draw the pattern

Draw the pattern onto some foamboard. I drew a 3cm x 3cm square with a Sharpie marker.

Q Why do I need to use foamboard for this project?

A We first tried with paper and cardboard, but you need a material that is stiff enough to keep the pins from moving at all! Foamboard is perfect, and can be picked up for cheap in small sizes!

Step 2 – Place Pins

Stick pins into the pattern. Keep them spaced about 1/8 inch apart. Make sure not to place any pins directly into the corners, but instead place 2 pins very close on either side of each corner. Try to push them as straight through the board as possible – you don’t want them to be leaning!

IMPORTANT: make sure you place an odd number of pins. As the pattern is square, I recommend using the same number of pins for every side except one. I used 6 pins on 3 sides and 5 pins on the 4th.

If you don’t place an odd number of pins, you won’t be able to do an alternate weave. Your mistake will be very evident to you as soon as you start weaving the second layer. 🙂

Pushing pins through the foamboard
Evenly spaced pins, 6 per side except for the odd side with only 5 pins

Step 3 – Start Weaving

Flip the foamboard over. Now you are ready to weave! You can start anywhere, but it’s advisable to start closer to a corner. Weave the cord behind a pin, then in front of the next pin, then behind the next pin. Repeat!

The first row of the basket is complete!

Step 4- Keep Weaving!

Repeat weaving! You will find a nice repetition that works for you. Make sure to pull the cord tight, and push down the layers to keep the weave really tight.

I found myself wishing that I had a thimble, as I kept pricking myself on the ends of the pins.

Closeup, about one-third of the way through the basket

When I reached about 18 layers, my basket was as tall as I wanted it to be. Also, the pins were running out of room, and it was getting tougher to weave. 😉 So I decided to be done!

To finish the basket, complete your current row back at the position where you started, so the height is the same on every side. Then cut the cord.

The basket with about 18 layers. Phew!

Step 5 – Remove and Glue Basket

Now we need to get the basket off the pins. To do this, apply a liberal coat of white glue to the basket. Make sure you get plenty of glue in the nooks and crannies! Try to avoid gluing the foamboard as much as possible – you don’t want to glue the basket to the board!

Gluing the basket layers together before removing from the pins

Before the glue has time to dry completely, you need to remove the pins and remove the basket from the board. I did it 5 minutes after gluing – so that the glue was still tacky, but it was holding the layers together.

Remove the pins from the board by sliding them out from the bottom. Then gently remove the basket from the foamboard and place it somewhere for it to dry.

Q What if my basket stuck to the foamboard?

A Use a hobby knife to loosen the strands from the board, and then glue these loose strands back onto the basket. This side can be the bottom!

The basket with wet glue. Kinda looks like a Frosted Mini-Wheat!

Step 6 – Create Inside Bottom

While your basket dries completely, we need a bottom. Cut a piece of printer paper or cardstock in the same pattern as the basket – 3cm x 3cm square. Apply a layer of glue to the paper. Lay a small end of cord in the very middle of the paper, and then wind cord around it, making an oval. Keep winding until you reach the very edges of the paper.

Starting the bottom of the basket
The complete basket and bottom – waiting to be glued together!

Step 7 – Insert Basket bottom

Your basket should be mostly dry by now. Take the paper and fit it into the basket, with the woven part inside the basket. Glue liberally.

The bottom fits nicely into the basket!

Step 8 – Finish Outside Basket Bottom

Now to finish the outside bottom! Cover the other side of the paper with glue and repeat the oval winding process. To make sure that the cord goes to the very edges, I started from the outside and worked my way in, unlike with the inside.

When you are done, glue liberally!

Weaving the outside bottom of the basket

Step 9 – Make Handles

If you want handles on your basket, cut 2 1.5-2cm lengths of cord. Roll them entirely in glue (your fingers are going to get extremely sticky!) Then place them at the same height on opposite sides of the basket. Make sure that they aren’t stuck to the side of the basket, but rather are only stuck by the ends so that they can move a little.

That’s it! You now have an adorable little hand-woven basket. Stay tuned for more, since we can use this same technique for all kinds of shapes!

Did you like this post? Share on social media or leave us a comment below?

Do you have any other ideas for miniature projects you would like to see? Let us know in the comments!

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How to Build your First Polymer Clay Kit

If you want to get started with miniature polymer clay sculpting, it can be a bit overwhelming. Luckily we’re here to tell you all the supplies you need to make your own minis from polymer clay!

1. Plenty of colors of clay

Even if you have 1 particular project in mind and think you only need 1 color, having lots of colors around will come in handy! Being able to mix colors together for just the right shade will make your project your own.

You can buy individual blocks or get started with a variety pack! We carry 23 individual colors and 3 multipacks at great prices!

2. Clay softener

Clay that is soft is so much easier to work! But sometimes it can get a little hard if older or not stored properly. Buy a bottle of clay softener so you don’t need to keep buying more blocks of clay when they get too hard.

3. Latex gloves

When working with small pieces, you don’t want your fingerprints to show! Grab a pair of latex gloves to make sure all your minis are smudge-free!

4. A knife or small blade

When you roll out the perfect clay cane, you need to be able to cut it to size. A sharp knife or razor blade is the perfect tool to make sure the edges are crisp.

5. Tweezers

Tweezers are perfect for placing details and accents on your mini pieces. Using your fingers is a recipe for smushed clay!

6. Clay roller

Rolling out smooth, thin sheets of clay will definitely come in handy! You can use an acrylic roller or a clay machine that allows you to customize the thickness!

7. Tools for sculpting

Using your fingers to sculpt can be tricky. Buy some tools for shaping and cutting.

8. Clay gun

A clay gun is perfect for extruding clay in miniature shapes. You will find it indispensable when making miniature cakes.

Our clay gun has 19 different discs for all the shapes you need – from circles to squares and triangles and cloverleafs!

9. Liquid clay

Liquid clay opens up a whole new realm of possibilities! Use clear liquid clay for glazed windows and enameled pieces. Use white liquid clay for frosting your miniature baked goods!

10. Chalk pastels

Chalk pastels are the perfect way to add subtle tint and shadowing to your miniatures. Add them to white liquid clay to create colored frosting.

11. Acrylic paints

Acrylic paint is a great way to add deeper color to your pieces.

12. Paintbrushes

You will need some paintbrushes for your paints and pastels!

13. Clay glaze

When you finish the perfect mini project, you want to make sure it stays perfect! Apply some glaze to finish it.

Shop all these items in 1 place here:

💵 Buy 3 or more items from the kit and save 10%. Buy 10 or more items from the kit and save 20%! 💵

What do you think? Are there other polymer clay supplies that you can’t live without? Comment at us below.

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8 Must-Have Supplies for Your Dollhouse Crafting Kit

Glues, scissors, blades, paints, oh my! There are a lot of things to consider when you are getting started as a DIY miniaturist. Here is our guide on all the essentials for the new hobby miniaturist.

1. A hobby knife

This one is a must! The uses are infinite: cutting wallpaper, breaking through craft wood, trimming florals, slicing polymer clay, and more!

Get one in a case with multiple types of blades for all your future needs!

2. All-purpose glue

There are a million kinds of glue, but we like to have an all-purpose glue always handy in our toolbox!

Aleene’s Tacky Glue is a fan favorite, and works on wood, paper, nonwashable fabrics, ceramics, metal, and more. We like this upside-down Easy Squeeze bottle because it flows easily and has a small tip – perfect for mini work!

3. Brushes, brushes, brushes!

When you are working on a dollhouse, there is always painting and gluing and finishing to be done! Make sure you have the right brush for the job.

We like to have really small brushes for miniature details, big foam brushes for covering large areas and getting into crevices, and glue brushes for the messy work!

4. Tweezers

Sometimes the miniature details are too small for our fingers! That’s when tweezers come in handy.

Grab a pair with a slight curve so you can use them to arrange mini accessories!

5. Wood glue

We are always making little wood crafts for our dollhouses! While some people use hot glue for their crafts, we’ve never liked it for miniatures – too much risk of burning your fingers!!!

6. Paint palette

We guarantee this will come in handy! You can use it for mixing paints to recover a piece of furniture or to keep track of little beads and finials while you glue them onto your tiny Christmas tree!

This one has 6 spots and is washable, and only 79¢!

7. Acrylic paints

There is always something to paint around a dollhouse! Use acrylic paints on furniture, walls and floors, dishes, fabrics, clay pots, and more!

There are hundreds of colors available, but always make sure you have white, black, and brown in your toolbox!

8. Varnishes, glazes, and finishes

To finish off your painted projects, make sure you coat and seal them so they stand the test of time!

Our creme glosses are good for adding a soft sheen to furniture. Use matte varnish when you don’t want any shine on the finished product. Satin varnish is perfect for a soft shine. Mod Podge is perfect for putting the finishing touch on your paper creations!

Shop all the items in the Dollhouse Crafting Kit in 1 place here:

💵 Buy 3 or more items from the kit and save 10%. Buy 10 or more items from the kit and save 20%! 💵

What do you think about our list? Are there other must-have items in your mini toolbox? Comment at us below.

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Weave a Miniature Gardening Basket

I’ve always loved baskets, and I wanted to get into miniature basket weaving. Only guess what, basket weaving is hard! So here is a simpler method that anyone can do.


  • the thinnest hemp cord you can find. I used 10 lb hemp cord, in a natural hue
  • plain white glue. I use Aleene’s Original Tacky Glue
  • a paintbrush handle for shaping the basket. Our medium Foam Stencil Brush is perfect for that!
  • Optional some produce to put in your basket!


1) Print out the template for the basket from the link below. I found mine online and have blown it up for you. I printed mine on plain white paper, but you can use cardstock too. Make sure that the paper is close to the same color as the hemp cord unless you plan to paint your basket when done.

2) Cut out the template. I used an Xacto knife to get really precise in the corners.

3) Find an end on your hemp cord and secure it under the template with your finger. Begin to interweave the cord in and out of the tabs. Keep the cord tight, but not so tight that you tear the paper!

4) Keep weaving. As you go, pull the cord gently so that a soft bowl shape appears. If any gaps appear between the cords, push the strings together with your finger.

5) When you get to the desired height of the basket (it doesn’t need to be the top of the tabs), cut the cord. Put a little bit of glue on the end of the cord and then hide it underneath the other cords. A toothpick helped me sneak the cord under there.

6) Trim away the extra paper at the top of the tabs very gently. Don’t trim the cords!

7) To finish the top of your basket, cut a long piece of the 20 lb hemp cord. Run glue around the top of the basket and glue your finishing cord around, carefully gluing the loose ends together.

8) To finish the inside bottom of the basket, you can do an easy coil of cord. Apply glue all over the bottom of the basket. Then take a piece of thin cord and spiral it all the way around the inside of the basket, keeping it tight. A toothpick or tweezers can help you get the cord exactly positioned right – you don’t want any gaps in your spiral! Snip the cord off when you are at the last spiral and tuck it in the middle.

9) Finish the outside bottom of the basket with a coil, the same way you did step 8.

10) Now your basket is probably a little flat. To give it sides, I found a thick paintbrush (I used our Foam Stencil brushes) and wrapped the basket around it tightly with a rubber band. I let it sit overnight while all the glue set.

11) When you unwrap your basket shape, you will have your gardening basket, but you just need the handle! Cut a piece of thicker cord for the handle (or you can braid it), and glue to both sides. Clamp it in place with your fingers to let it dry.

You are done! You have a cute little ‘wicker’ style gardening basket.

What will you put in your basket? Produce? Flowers? Will you use yours as a centerpiece in a miniature scene? Let us know in the comments below.

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Easy, Inexpensive DIY Wooden Floorboards for your Dollhouse – Made from Coffee Stirrers!

Brr! It’s cold outside! So I’ve stayed in and learning a new technique for creating wooden floorboards for my dollhouse. And the best part is, it uses something you see around you every day – coffee stirrers!


  • wooden coffee stirrers
    • I bought a 1000-pack from Amazon for $13. Be careful to get coffee stirrers with square ends. I didn’t, and I gave myself a lot of extra work, cutting off the rounded ends 🙁
  • hobby knife I also used a box cutter for a few cuts
  • wood glue
  • sandpaper or a sanding block
  • a disposable brush
  • wood stain or paint
  • varnish
  • optional a fine-tip Sharpie
  • a floor surface (either a room box or dollhouse) I had a length of plywood lying around that I decided to test my technique on

Step 1 – Decide on your floorboard lengths and pattern

I did a little research and learned that, when laying floorboards, you should avoid ‘H-joints’. Essentially, every other row shouldn’t line up with other, but rather the rows should be staggered in a  much more cascading way.

I found this picture to help explain things:

Notice that in the 2 patterns, the top 2 rows are the same, but after that, the correct method has a lot more staggering going on.  Of course, your method is up to you, but I like the authentic nature of having more staggering going on, so I chose to copy the top method. I printed off this picture to help me as a guide while I went.

To do this, I decided to cut 4-inch lengths of coffee stirrers for the main floorboards. My coffee stirrers were 7 inches long, including the rounded edges, so this gave me a few extra inches per coffee stirrer for smaller boards, which I would need for the edges of the board.

Step 2 – Cut the coffee stirrers

Coffee stirrers are thin and can be snapped easily by hand. But if you don’t give the stirrer a little guidance, they will splinter badly. I recommend placing an Exacto knife mark on each side in the spot you intend to cut and then gently snapping. This should eliminate the splintering.

Then sand down the newly cut edge. Voila! You have a tiny floorboard!

I needed 16 4-inch floorboards to cover my 2.75″x7″ length of plywood, as well as 11 smaller pieces. Presumably, if you are covering an entire room, you will need a lot more! Get comfortable with your Exacto knife. 🙂

Step 3 – Glue the floorboards in place

I ran a thin line of wood glue down the back of my first floorboard, spread the glue out with a brush, and placed the floorboard in the middle of the piece of plywood. I pressed down briefly and wiped away the traces of glue that seeped out. I then glued 2 smaller pieces on each side. They stuck out over the sides, but that was fine for me because I will be cutting off all the extra pieces later. If you are gluing into a particular room with walls, you should, of course, cut the side pieces down to size first.

I then prepped 2 more 4-inch floorboards. I placed them so that their seam was exactly in the middle of the first floorboard. They both extended slightly over the edge of my plywood.

I prepped another 4-inch floorboard. This is where it got tricky. Instead of placing it directly below the first row (which would create an ‘H-joint’), I staggered the pattern slightly, placing it a quarter-inch to the left of where the first row floorboard is placed. I then placed 2 more side pieces.

I then continued like this all the way down the work surface, being careful to stagger the pattern on every row.

Step 4 – Sand and Finish Edges

After placing the last floorboard, I let the glue dry for about 30 minutes. Then I flipped the work surface over and ran a box cutter down the edge of it, scoring the protruding edges of the floorboards. I was then able to easily snap off the extra edges.

When the edges were flush, I used a coarse piece of sandpaper to get the edges as smooth as possible. Then I used a finer sanding block on the floorboards themselves to make them satiny smooth. I don’t want my doll’s feet to get splinters!

Step 5 – Finishing the Boards

While these nice birch boards look good on their own, I wanted to go a little further and finish them!  A couple of fun options are whitewash, wood stain, barn wood wax, or acrylic paint. I chose Gel Wood Stain in Walnut.

I applied 2 coats of gel stain with a small foam brush, waiting 30 seconds after applying each coat before wiping back with a clean cloth.

After I had applied and wiped the second coat, I took a fine-tip black Sharpie pen, and made 2 small dots, vertically, at the ends of each floorboard, to signify nails. I think this adds a nice dash of authenticity! If you are using floorboards longer than 4 inches, you may want to consider adding nails in the middle of each floorboard as well, as floorboards of this length would traditionally need extra hardware.

I let the stain dry for about a half an hour until it was no longer tacky to the touch. Then I applied 2 coats of glossy varnish, to give it a waxed appearance. If you prefer your floors to look more worn, you can use real wax or no finish at all, it’s up to you!

We’re done! Tell us what you think about the coffee stirrer floors. What other DIY dollhouse ideas should we explore?

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Tutorial: Replacing your Clock Battery

You Will Need:

  • One of our working clocks
  • A new 1.5V battery
  • A tweezers or pliers
  • Steady hands



In this tutorial, we are using our Unfinished Grandfather Clock as an example.

  1. Remove the front clock piece from the clock. It should come right out.
  2. Remove the rubber seal from the edge
  3. Pry off the top metal cover. You will probably need to use a pliers
  4. With your finger, move the metal arm off the old battery and pull it out.
  5. With the arm still out of the way, replace the new battery.
  6. Your clock should start working again! If it doesn’t, make sure the crown on the side is pushed in
  7. Replace the metal cover and rubber seal.
  8. Pop the clock piece back in, with 12 at the top
  9. You’re done!

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Creating Vintage European Map Decor with Free Printables!

Happy Spring everyone! Okay, maybe we’re early… But we can’t wait for the sun to melt the heavy Minnesota snow and for the warm temperatures to bring some inspiration! Here is a small project that you can do in less than 10 minutes, for less than $5, using our free European map printable and an oak frame! Happy creating!


  • Vintage European map printable
  • Thin cardstock, in white or cream
  • Picture frame
  • Mod Podge optional


1. Print out the map printable. See our how-to doc for more information

2. Cut out the map you want. We chose the color map of Europe at the top left. We used a paper cutter to get exact cuts, but an Exacto knife or scissors will work just as well!

3. Cut out a blank piece of cardstock for matting. The dimensions should be about 2″ long by 2.75″ wide. When you put the matting in the frame, it should fit exactly.

4. Glue the map into the middle of the matting. We used an Elmer’s glue stick.

5. Optional. Cover the map with a thin layer of Mod Podge. We really mean thin! Too much can soak into the map and discolor it. Also be sure to prevent the map from warping. We used small weights at each corner to weigh it down while the Mod Podge coat dried.

You’re done! We used a sticky wax to adhere the map and mat to the back of the frame.

^ Shown above mocked up in our Traditional Roombox.

What do you think?

Do you like our quick and cheap map printable decor idea? What other types of printables would you like to see? Comment below!

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Introducing our new FREE printables library

Have you ever noticed how many things there are on the internet? Here at Minnesota Miniatures Market, we know that it can be overwhelming to find all the things you need, especially for free.

So we are putting together a library of free printable products, just for you!

What are Printables?

Printables are images that have been scaled down to miniature sizes, for use in your dollhouse scenes. They can range from food labels to hatboxes to furniture appliques.

How does it work?

We find printables all over the internet. We grab the images and put them into our library, for free! You put them in your cart and checkout, no payment needed. You download them in your Account and print them as many times as you want!

We are starting out with just a few, but will be adding dozens more in the weeks to come!

How to print them?

  1. Download the image from our library.
  2. Load the paper into your printer. The paper depends on the type of thing you are printing. Food labels might be best to print on thin letter paper. A scene for a picture frame would be best on thicker cardstock.
  3. Print the image. We recommend using the highest quality print job you have available.
  4. Cut out the printables and have fun!


What do you think? Do you like using printables for your dollhouses and mini scenes? What kinds of printables would you like to see us add?

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3 Ways to Create Egg Carton Masonry for your Dollhouse

In between making Christmas candy and wrapping presents this weekend, I found some time to put my empty egg cartons to work – as masonry for the outside of a dollhouse! 

Today I’m going to show you three possible ways to create miniature masonry, with just an egg carton, some acrylic paint, glue, and creativity!


  • acrylic paints I used different colors for each style
  • an empty egg carton
  • brushes of various sizesI like using foam spouncers
  • glue (white, tacky, or otherwise)
  • Mod Podge or another decoupaging medium

I decided to test my masonry on a thin length of plywood. I gave it a base coat of acrylic paint in Oatmeal. This color will come through as the mortar. You could easily use an antique white, or even a dark gray, for the mortar.

1. Rustic

I wanted to first try creating a style of masonry that belongs on an English cottage.


I started by ripping up the egg carton. I aimed for semi-rectangular pieces or ‘stones’ that are vaguely similar in size. I used only my fingers to rip the paper but tried to avoid having jagged edges. I aimed for stones that were roughly hewn from a quarry.  When I had a large pile of these stones, I was ready to begin!

I placed stones by picking pieces of the egg carton, applying a thin layer of tacky glue, and then manually putting them on to the board. The positioning was very flexible. I sometimes ripped pieces further to get them to fit with the rest of the layout. I tried to maintain roughly the same distance between stones, to provide balance.

Once I had placed all the stones and the glue had dried, I was ready to paint! I decided to go with a brownish gray shade to the stones.

To start, I filled a little paint palette with drops of acrylic paint in these colors:

I grabbed a paper towel and a small foam brush and got to work!

I dipped my brush into the oatmeal color, then dabbed most of it off on the paper towel. The key to painting the stones is a light hand. Remember, you can always come back later and put more color in, but it’s much harder to take color out! I lightly brushed color onto the stones until I had a good base coat. If I found that too much pigment had been applied to one area, I used another, large foam brush to blend out the color.

When I had laid down a good coat of oatmeal paint, I used the same brush to pick up a dot of mushroom brown paint. Again, I brushed most of the color off onto the paper towel. I lightly dabbed brown onto the stones, applying color just to the edges and to the very tops of the stones. This color just added some dimension to the stones.

I then applied a layer of antique white paint in the same manner.

Lastly, I used the same small foam brush to pick up some moss green paint. I applied a thin layer of this paint to just the very bottom stones. This is the perfect look for the bottom of a house that is sitting in the grass.

After that, all my ‘masonry’ needed was a good clear coat. I gave it 3 thin coats of Mod Podge, waiting about 20 minutes between each coat.

2. Red Brick

I next wanted to try my hand at bricks. There are many different shades of brick, but I aimed for a classic weathered red.


I created bricks by cutting up ripped pieces of the egg carton. There is a certain amount of precision required here because the bricks need to be similar in shape and size. I cut my bricks approximately 1/4″ wide, and 1/2″ – 3/4″ long.

Placing the bricks is much trickier than placing bigger stones because brick needs to follow a pattern. I applied a layer of glue to the plywood, then used tweezers to position my bricks. Sometimes I cut bricks to smaller sizes so that they would match up.  Keeping straight lines and uniform positioning is important.

When I had placed enough bricks, I pulled together my colors for painting. I used:

I started off by mixing red and brown paints on my paper towel. I laid in this color heavily with a small foam brush.

Using a regular paintbrush, I added in light accents of black, focusing on the edges of the brick. This makes the bricks pop and creates a ‘sooty’ look that would be perfect for a fireplace flue.

I applied accents of white in the same way. Lastly, I applied a thicker layer of oatmeal paint all over the top. This mellowed the bright colors and made the bricks look more uniform.

3. Gray Brick

I had some bricks leftover, so decided to test out another color scheme for my bricks.

I laid out another brick pattern, left them to dry, and then started on another paint palette.

I applied a layer of Amish gray using a small foam brush and then used a fresh paintbrush to apply accents of black and white.

What do you think?

Which style was your favorite?

Have you ever used egg cartons to create masonry for your dollhouse or miniatures display? Show us in the comments!

And check out our new blog post about getting started with your mini toolbox!

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Product Inspiration: Traditional Office

Today we thought we would give you some pointers on how to use your new Minnesota Miniatures Market products for an office scene! We staged some of our favorite office products in our Traditional Room Box. Take a look at some of the details!



Fireplace detail

We started off with our Unfinished Barewood Fireplace (3). The front decorative grate is optional, so we removed it to give us more room for some Logs in Holder (4). By the fire, we added our Brass Fireplace Tools (2). Look at that tiny brush! We added an Elegant Rug (6) in front of it, and it was the perfect place for one of our Grab-Bag Dog Figurines (5) to lie down. The scene was finished off with a majestic Spanish Galleon Painting (1) above the mantel.



Against the other wall, we added an Unfinished Kneehole Desk (8). It has removable drawers that you can fill with tiny office supplies! In front, we wheeled an Unfinished Desk Chair (7). Don’t you just really want to sit against that comfy leather back? On top of the desk, we added Books and Bookends (9) and some Packages and Mail (10).


Buy These Products!


How would you create a tiny office? Do you want to see more product inspiration posts? Leave us a comment!